Our first island trip from Ishigaki was Taketomi island. It is a small, circular, flat island that most people either walk or bike around when they visit. It also happens to be the most popular day trip from Ishigaki. The ferry only takes 10-15 minutes to get there, and they come and go every 30-40 minutes, so odds are we weren’t gonna miss the last one and be stuck on the island overnight (unless, of course, it was cancelled due to weather).
It was a good day to test my tolerance for ferry travel. Iriomote would be 35-40 minutes on a ferry, so if I couldn’t handle this one, I knew I’d be in trouble. It was a fairly windy day, and the captain warned us it would be a bumpy ride (we could tell by the use of his hands, not by what he said), and he was right. However, the ferry went pretty fast so even though it was bumpy, it wasn’t a tossy-turvy make-you-sick motion.
We arrived safely at the ferry terminal (which has a great view of Ishigaki Island and the city), and we started walking toward the village. It only takes about 10 minutes to get to the center of town. Taketomi is well known as as a well preserved, traditional Ryukyu style village. There are less than 400 people that live here. The weathered-wood houses are all one story, with red tile roofs, rock walls, sandy streets and lion-like statues (shiza) at either their entrance or on their rooftop (which they believe will ward off evil spirits). Preservation efforts are in place to keep this village exactly like this, which is great, because it is so unique and interesting. By going here first, it helped me notice the traditional houses on the other islands (which were very few and far between). I really loved this island – especially all of the different shizas, the flowers, and butterflies.
Some of the houses in the village are actually minshuku in which you can stay overnight at (if you know Japanese well enough to make a reservation). I would have loved to do that. Other houses in the village contain shops or restaurants, but it’s hard to tell the difference between them, since all the houses look alike. We wondered around leisurely, admiring the quaintness of the place. It wasn’t very crowded, and at times, it almost felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. We saw the school and post office, the Nagaminoto tower (which we didn’t climb), and the water buffalo cart man who was trying to strum up some business (and he did!). We also saw lots of cats, including one that got caught drinking out of someone’s noodle bowl – the waiter was not very happy with him. We had lunch at a pretty big place with a beautiful wood interior (it had lots of customers which is always a good sign). I ordered the Ishigaki Beef burger which was delicious and Robert got the pork cutlet which was also very tasty. It came with salad, macaroni, and some yummy pickled vegetables.
With a happy tummy, we went off in search of the beaches. We arrived at the West Pier in about 10 minutes – which had a great view of the other islands. We walked along the dried black coral shoreline until we got to Kondoi Beach. The beaches here are white, but they have lots of little dead coral pieces mixed in, so I’m not sure I’d want to walk barefoot on them. The water is crystal clear and the colors range from light blue to turquoise. If we had more time, I could have easily spent a couple hours here. Our next stop was Kaiji Beach which is one of only two beaches that have star-shaped sand. Several small tour buses were stopped here. Robert tried to find some star sand but he gave up pretty quickly. At the little make-shift stall on the beach, we looked through a magnify glass and sure enough it’s true – there is such a thing as star-shaped sand. They were selling some in a bottle there, so I just had to get me one.
We had successfully done everything we wanted to do on this island, but looking at our map, I realized we were now on the opposite side of the island and at the furthest point away from the ferry. We still had plenty of time, so we took the back roads to the ferry terminal. Fortunately, the weather continued to cooperate and we made our way safely back to Ishigaki.
That night we had dinner in town at a local place called Hitoshi. They actually have two locations in town. I had read about it on the internet and it was # 1 on Tripadvisor. The menu was entirely in Japanese, but fortunately a wonderful woman working there, spoke some English and helped us order their best dishes. They specialize in tuna and it was by far the best tuna I’ve had since being in Japan. They also make this homemade tofu with a sticky peanut sauce that is out of this world. I think Robert would fly all the way back there just for that. It ended up being a perfect ending to a perfect day.