Our week in Chiang Mai flew by. We only had two days to really relax and just enjoy the city. One day after a yummy “French-Thai” lunch (and an awesome pomelo salad!), we walked the streets of the neighborhood. We headed straight for the huge local markets we saw along the Ping river when we were returning from Chiang Dao. On the map it is called Worarot Market – it was nearly void of tourists. This is where the locals come to shop – as most items for sale were practical day to day goods. The market’s main building, which is over 100 years old is three stories tall. The first story is all food: meats, fish, vegetables – from fresh to dried, preserved, and packaged. The second floor was filled with clothing and fabrics, and the top floor looked to be toys, furniture and more clothes (we actually never made it up there). The “market” however, is not just confined to that building. All the adjoining streets and buildings house more shops containing all sorts of items for sale: Electronics, kitchen goods, sewing repair shops, tools, jewelry, shoes, etc. It’s a maze with little alley walls and halls leading everywhere. I’m pretty sure only a local resident could find the same shop twice around here. Just when we thought we were out, we quickly realized we were in the flower market. Adjacent to that was a “food court” and the butcher shop…are you getting the picture? Finally we did find our way out and ended up at the Chinese Shrine, Pong Thao Kong. Here I read, that this section of the city is where the largest number of Chinese settlers took up residence and started their businesses, so the whole area is also referred to as the China Town of Chiang Mai. This whole area was so interesting, we decided to plant ourselves atop a foot bridge nearby and hang out for a while. It was fun watching the vibrant city below us and the everyday activity of it’s people.
On our last day in Chiang Mai, we hired a driver for half a day and went up the mountain 8 miles west of the city to to see Wat Doi Suthep. A wat that was built because a white elephant caring the magical self-replicating buddha statue came up here, trumpeted, turned around three times and died. Personally, I think they built it here for the view. From up here you can also see the whole city of Chiang Mai (which is best right before sunset). We went mid-morning, so the view was still mostly obstructed by morning rays and haze. The mountain also has waterfalls, trails, birds, and the king’s palace (which if we had more time I’d come back to explore). Despite the excessive number of visitors, the wat really is worth seeing. It’s packed with tourists. Vendors are lined up all along the streets right to the base of the stairs. There are tour buses and cars everywhere. I felt like I was at Disneyland. Fortunately our taxi driver knew a great spot to park not far from the entrance and we managed to avoid most of the mayhem. We spent nearly 2 hours here, so obviously there is a lot worth seeing. The stairs up are pretty cool. The railing on both sides is a long green undulating serpent dragon with four serpent dragons coming out of it’s mouth. Local mother’s come here with their young children dressed up in traditional dress who will take their picture with you (hoping for a tip). When you get to the top, it’s a double bonus. The outside courtyard is wide open and beautiful…almost worth an hour itself. The inside is a different world (and totally worth the 30 baht ($1) entrance fee) – ornate and loaded with religious artifacts. The gold plated chedi, the murals, the emerald buddhas, and religious relics of all sorts. There is an amazing number of intensely devout subjects who come here despite all the tourists taking pictures. How they managed to block us all out, amazed me.
Our last stop was Wat Suan Dok. This is the wat where the famous white elephant (mentioned above) started it’s journey. From these grounds you can easily see Wat Doi Suthep up in mountain. The name Suan Dok roughly translates to “Field of Flowers” – how nice is that? We really enjoyed this place. There were only a handful of tourists, lots of monks, and it was so different from the others. It had a huge, long prayer hall that I couldn’t even fit in my camera lens. Instead of the prayer hall being enclosed, it was open on all sides so it didn’t feel confining or too formal. Next door to the hall was a huge burial ground – a forest of white reliquaries….containing the remains of Chiang Mai’s past rulers/leaders (the national royal burial grounds!). The whole place is also very photogenic as well. But, the absolute best thing about this place, was the little restaurant hidden just off the grounds. Our cooking instructor mentioned it, and I had seen it mentioned in a couple other local blogs, so I was hell bent on finding this gem – and fortunately we did. Pun Pun was, without a doubt, the best place we ate in Thailand. It’s all organic yet incredibly inexpensive. The presentation of the food is impeccable, the service friendly and relaxed, the atmosphere casual and fun, and the food was mouthwatering fresh and flavorful. I hope this place is still here when we return. We had an absolutely amazing time in Chiang Mai, and we really weren’t ready to leave. It’s easy to understand why there are so many repeat visitors. We barely scratched the surface of everything there is to do here. We’ll definitely come back here someday.
|Day 6 – Doi Suthep & Wat Suan Dok|